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The Fascinating History Behind Scottish Clan Tartans and Crests

Tartan has been strongly associated with Scotland for many years. In particular, this design is synonymous with the Scottish Highlands, with tartan becoming an integral part of Highland dress from the 17th Century onwards.

Authentic tartan is made of a pattern of broad and narrow lines of at least two colours. It must be symmetrical both horizontally and vertically.

In this blog, we will discuss the fascinating, and sometimes surprising, history of Scottish tartan.

The Origin of Tartan

While tartan is heavily associated with Scotland, it was not actually a Scottish creation.

The oldest example of tartan was found 3,000 years ago in China. Furthermore, wherever in the world fabrics were being woven, other iterations of tartan have been found.

Regardless, tartan became highly popular in Scotland in years past and it came to have political and cultural significance.

The oldest authentic piece of Scottish tartan was found in a Glen Affric peat bog. Carbon dating suggested that the fabric dated back to the 1500 or 1600s, which was around the time Mary Queen Of Scots was on the throne.

The History of Scottish Tartan

Tartan is not only a culturally significant Scottish design, it was once a symbol of rebellion.

In the mid-18th century, tartan came to signify an allegiance to Charles Edward Stuart, also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie among the Scottish. In 1745, Charles Edward Stuart led tartan-clad Jacobite rebels to England to fight to reclaim the throne for his father.

Unfortunately, the Jacobites were unsuccessful. This led the British government to ban Highland Dress, which incorporated a lot of tartan. This included the phillabeg (a kilt-like garment), trews (tartan trousers) and tartan coats.

The ban was repealed in 1782.

The History of Clan Tartan

Some historians believe the concept of clan-specific tartan was created in 1815. However, if you dig deeper into the topic, many reach a very different conclusion.

In short, the vast majority of historians consider clan tartan to be an elaborate work of fiction.

It is thought that early tartan was found in specific regions due to the independent weavers of the time selling the most popular tartan locally. Consequently, the pattern itself held no substantial meaning.

When Highland Dress was banned, tartan weaving halted. During this time, many original weavers passed away, taking their tartan designs with them.

When attempting to preserve old tartan patterns, the Highlander Society of London mistakenly attributed them as belonging to specific clans.

Most of the clan-specific tartan worn today was invented by two English brothers, John Carter Allen and Charles Manning Allen. These two brothers were con-men who changed their names to suit their claim that they descended from Bonnie Prince Charlie.

The brothers also claimed to find a document dating from 1580 detailing the outfits of Scots. The “Vestiarium Scoticum” suggested several clans had their own pattern of tartan. This manuscript has been proven to be fake. It’s thought that they did this as tartan with a clan name attached was easier to sell.

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s deep affection for Balmoral Castle in the 1840s created a surge in aristocratic popularity of Scottish culture and tartans, resulting in the systematic cataloguing and invention of many new clan tartans. Then in 1815 the Highland Society of London began formally compiling and recording patterns they believed belonged to specific clans, often sourcing samples from commercial weaving firms like Wilsons of Bannockburn.

Today, the Scottish Register of Tartans officially catalogues and preserves thousands of clan-specific designs, including variations like ancient, modern, and hunting tartans, which are proudly worn by clan descendants and associates.

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